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I have an apparent weakness. You could call it a sin or even deem it illegal but its true, I still yearn to be a teenage K-pop idol. Even though I'm way past any idol competition entry age, I can't help going slightly 'google' eyed when I see cute street wear meant for the effervescent teens. So when I got a chance to cover 4 emerging street wear shops this week, I jumped on it like a kid on a rampage in a candy store.
I admit, exciting street wear isn't exactly what Saigon is known for. In fact, you'll be hard pressed to even find teenagers listening to The Killers or doing a flip-kick on their skateboards anywhere in Vietnam. Unlike markets in Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong where decades of MTV, X-Games and Asian Hip-Hop has amalgamated into modern society; Saigon's teen influences have thus far been a very K-pop mixed with Disney Channel affair. But as with all emerging markets, teens are very quick to pick up on the frivolous youth trends that come and go yearly. This is Saigon youth's coming of age - stepping out of their Ao Dai past and leaping into a new generation of 'angsty' melodramatic emo-rock personalities mixed with K-pop accessibility.
The first shop is only 2 months old and located just off the junction of Nam Ky Khoi Nghia and Le Thanh Ton, (5 minutes off swanky Dong Khoi and bargain hunting Ben Thanh Market). The name Sandwich is a 'no-brainer' as it is literally stuck between a cafe (which has changed so many times, I've neglected to remember the name) and the staircase to a very pretty cafe upstairs called La Fenetre. Only, this sandwich has some seriously sweet filling.
Sandwich
125 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist 1 HCMC
Every good street wear shop knows that youths are at the beginning of their journey as hunters. Hunting for first love, hunting for a good education, hunting for a creative outlet, hunting for an edge above their peers and ultimately hunting to fit in with their age and global identity. They want the world to know they've arrived in style and are ready to strut their way to the top.
At Sandwich, they've made sure Thanh Phuong aka Melanie Strange and Quang Duc aka Sid Vicious has everything they need to make the world eat from their hands. Cutesy, angsty and full of pouting lip-smacking gear ranging from t-shirts, caps, hats, summer dresses, skirts, pants, shorts, belts, bags, shoes and of course the all important identity defining wrist bands, chokers, bangles, and toy dangles to boot.
Ready to bring your blushing girlfriend for a 'Rain' concert? Then pick yourself a cool skull print sweater to layer over your semi-washed grungy stars and stripes t-shirt and just so she knows how cool your chaffed skin injury from your half-pipe accident looks, put on your plaid shorts with silver chains dangling onto your million dong 'Rolling Stones-Hot Lips' Velcro wallet. And because you know having super-waxed jagged cuts for a hairdo is not enough, top off your look with a dastardly toothy monster cap. Shoes? Well you're not quite ready for any serious office work but sure are ready to show her some Melbourne shuffling dance moves, so pick yourself a lightly striped canvas sneakers and forget the socks. Want to turn your post-pimply teen hunk into bumbling jello? Then it's time for you to set the alarm bells ringing with peekaboo bulbous short skirts hung from slim black garters over skin tight baby T's that hug the form enough to give any guy a serious nose bleed - without losing your decency.
For the teen idol girl to bask in the glory of swooning guys, complement your attire with a host of cheeky country summer dresses, cute vests, super short polka dot shorts and lots of candy coloured bangles that 'clinks' every time you twirl your locks. Of course, don't just run around barefooted (unless you're at the beach) but get his eyes wandering down to your feet every once in awhile with ballerina type moccasins that will awaken the prince charming in every guy you meet. Take your pic from angel pure white to alluring pink stripes or flower patterns. And while you may already have coloured streaks on your hair, nothing says street chic princess better than countering your guy's monster cap with one of your own. Finally, with all the notebooks, shades, ipods, phones and cameras you have, a swanky bowling bag slung over your shoulder will simply add to your allure as guys constantly try to figure out what secrets lie within the sanctity of your zipped treasure box.
When you've completely knocked your peers off your feet, Sandwich helps you make more friends with all the trinkets and cool figurines you can collect and pass them out to crazed fans whenever you want a little more 'TLC'. It's all at Sanwich, quality items with true 'street cred' from urban neighbourhoods like Bangkok, Singapore, Hong Kong and more. Soon however, I am pretty sure Saigon will be bursting with their interpretation of urban street culture as teenagers forge ahead with their blend of American music attitude and Vietnamese summer style.
Coming up next week: Tokyo Irreverance @ Nong Noc, Skatepark @ PJay and NuStreet @ Lu.Xu.Bu
"Gosh! I sure took a long time shopping!" I told myself as I'm writing this. The past two weeks has been another one of those traumatic, stupendous, melodramatic, ecstatic roller coaster ride I go through every now and again. For those who've ever felt trapped by their relationship, career, insecurities or a combination of these, will understand what I mean. As I search for shops to put online, it is also an exercise to release my weariness in a more positive manner. Funny that I should choose shopping then as I've never quite believed window shopping can be therapeutic. But it is.
If you're in the mood to get away from your roller coaster ride, try window shopping my page this week and spend nothing but good times rearranging your life. Who knows, you might even end up finally throwing out that old couch your now discarded ex loved to spread himself/herself across like a hibernating carnivore in exchange for a magnificently crafted bamboo cupboard - one that will allow you to hide away all his/her things you're not ready to burn.
I'm not really helping am I? LOL! Moving on...
The Good Shop is back this week with an entire street of boutiques offering a spread of fusion Vietnamese, more Korean imports and three spanking new teen street wear labels. So here goes.
I met a girl. She has a serious distaste for ironing. She loves silk and has friends who simply love making you look feel like ironing should be left to husbands and their office shirts. She also happens to own a large collection of impeccably crafted wood furnishings that will leave your fingers feeling sore just by looking at them. Her name is Chle.

CHLE
170 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Dist 1 HCMC
Chle is a woman. If you saw her walk down the street, you won't find her looking at you no matter how buffed, chiseled, eloquent or filthily rich you are. See, Chle already has a man to satisfy her every need.
And in turn, keeps her well endowed figure respectably hidden until her children are fast asleep.
Chle is as comfortable doing her grocery shopping as she is running down the beach with her beau looking somehow very respectable. Her secret? A complete line of clothes dedicated to the demise of the iron and ironing table.
Chle also has enough accessories to lend every occasion a special lift. Her heels and sandals have been carefully selected from her travels across the world. She knows that you don't need to have glittering glass slippers to catch your eye. She also has multiple large display cases filled with essential necklaces, brooches and earrings to subtly make you give up your seat when she walks by your 5-star Vietnamese restaurant.
When Chle is at home however, her love and respect for the traditional arts and buddhism immediately puts you into a spin as you're sent on a voyage of cultural homage. You realize that Chle will never have her dishes displayed unless she is ready to serve. Her strict attention to detailing also tells you how you're going to be the luckiest man if she decides to spare you some…ahem…attention.
Do not feel rejected if Chle's wonderful interior collection is beyond your reach, for her constant travels and healthy Swiss bank account allows her to save some individual sculptures just for you. For those who can afford the full 'enchalada', Chle has a complete range of finely crafted chest drawers, cupboards, chairs, dividers and shelves all embellished with Vietnamese carvings and/or painted flowers.
When you're done figuring if Chle will ever let herself have some fun, you'll be happy to see that she has her way of letting slip her quirkier side every once in a while. Chle not only feels it is okay to indulge in some character play with costumes but is creative enough to parade it as a floor lamp cover! If that is not enough to get your heart racing, then perhaps you're looking for some ironing back home.
Over the last two weeks, I've let the natural course of shop hunting decide what appears on this blog. Inside however, I felt guided by a few principles; i) focus on shops with unique design contributions. ii) Brands that were less about mass production and more about providing good creative spirit. I wanted to steer clear of any label that 'smacked' of bland commercialism.
In short, I was hunting for shops that were distinctively Vietnamese (but not necessarily traditional Vietnamese culture).
So when I first walked into Gaya, I was a little intimidated by its sprawling 4-storey showroom. I wasn't sure if this was within the lines of my vision. I mean, if such a large brand can be featured, then what's next? Gucci?
I knew the last thing readers out there wanted was a brand that's already plastered all over every media channel.
Now walk with me as I reveal how despite its enormity, Gaya is in fact a brand that has not only managed to blend Vietnamese craftsmanship with international styling but is a brand with a true ambition to deliver inspiring lifestyle to Vietnam.
"Gaya is unabashedly focused on captivating audiences beyond Vietnam with designs inspired by 5 international artisans in a fluid blend of modern styling and iconic Indochine appeal. Gaya whispers elegance without being pompous."
GAYA
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Corner of Le Lai, Dist 1 HCMC
Situated away from well-known shopping streets like Dong Khoi and Nguyen Trai, it is obvious that Gaya's showroom location was one decided by form and function rather than convenience. With 70's styled architecture, its facade itself aims to make a bold statement. Though the front entrance feels rather mundane, you immediately feel relaxed as you walk in and find the decor built more like a home than a shopping arcade. Rattan settee's with velvet cushions set amidst wild African daisies enveloped by dramatic, angular beamed ceiling gives you a sense of serene balance. Warm floor lamps only aim to enhance natural sunlight coming in through large windows all along the walls.
Cream, burgundy and dark chocolate interior decor pieces on the ground floor dramatically weaved from materials like Teflon micro fibres and Poly-rattans offer a weather-proof practicality to the designs. With aquamarine and deep green handbags lined along the opposing walls, the encompassing feeling is strangely reminiscent of being at a beach front bungalow. As I ascend the to the 1st floor, the angular beams with round cornered edges form striking counter points as they caption staircases and segment areas. Here, bone, silver, bamboo and ebony lacquer ware call out to you from the glowing back-lit white light display shelves. Each piece is apparently given 12 layers of lacquer for an impeccable high-gloss finish with refined simplicity as its core design principle. Interspersed between candle stands, vases, jewelery boxes and china is the clothing line, in neat rows hung along the walls and separated by colour codes.
Take your pick of exquisite colour palate ranging from black, reds, apple greens to vibrant pinks. Radiant Cambodian silk, linen and organza fabrics are cut to compliment the female form. Coloured beading, iconic motif prints and/or flattering crimps add a touch of Indochine glamour to each piece. Choose from sleek jacket and pants for your power-house conference to bandeau ball gowns for your night mingling with Monaco's elite; or slinky spaghetti strapped and A-line tulip summer dresses for your Manhattan afternoon rendezvous. Gaya has left virtually no occasion without a piece to set you off looking like a true celebrity.
The sprawling layout of each floor allows you to slowly take in the vast offering as windows provide focal points to the season's latest creations. 2nd and 3rd floors give more attention to bedroom and hall furnishings with rich silk bed linens, rattan beds, lounge chairs, garden benches and wall decor art as it slowly but surely complete its vision of captivating you from the time you wake up to the time you set the night alive.
It is at this point that I realized that there can be a fine line between accessible creativity and commercial appeal. Gaya is a brand that is able to carefully straddle between keeping a strong creative discipline and a charming accessiblity to entice women to part with a few more dollars than usual. After all, isn't that what good business sense is all about? As for the 'Good Shop' and our vision, even though we may not feature another brand this big in the near future, but rest assured we have opened ourselves to the possibility that a big brand can have a truly unique Vietnamese experience.
'Good Shop' wishes all women a Happy Woman's Day! Why? I don't know! Maybe it's because celebrating man's day instead would be like putting your god given male jewels up to the sky and shouting up to heaven saying "Look at what you gave me! A pair of marbles for a lifetime of sustainence and procreational entertainment!" While we're on the subject of scrotum, isn't it wonderful how dextrous the word has become? Representing anything from bravery, like "Come on, have some balls for god's sake!" (…do read it in queen's english for a more profound effect ) to expressing a down-right lie, like "Balllss!!!" (…and read this with your fist clenching your…ahem…jewels) Celebrating woman's day undoubtedly conjures a more subdued romantic appreciation of women.
And perhaps it is a woman's amazing ability for gentility and compassion that best differentiates between a man more than the obvious physical aspects. With modern day women embracing a stronger, more confident character, men are even more intrigued as they suddenly find women even more colourful. The ability to softly kiss a petal into a full-bloom while knocking the strongest flaming alcoholic concoction back is a strangely erotic quality men are increasingly entranced with. While for some men the idea of a woman capable of twisting your body into a mangled mess while reprogramming your laptop operating system can be far too intimidating, others find this modern superwoman their perfect equal.
Whichever we choose, we can be sure that women will continue to thrive and grow beyond man's expectations. And while women will continue to form the balance of nature, the question for men of the future is - Will men continue to embrace feminine qualities and habits as well until both sexes become complete equals divided only by physical features?
For men who scoff at this very idea, one simply needs to look at fashion, food, hygiene and cosmetics to get an idea how men have increasingly adopted the realm once wholly owned by women.
What does all this amount to for my humble little blog? Expect 'Good Shop' to keep more men happy as we give them more information on how, where and what to shop for in the city of beautiful women…Ho Chi Minh (Which of course, is named after a man)
Happy Woman's Day! :)
Ever get bored of how modern fashion labels extend their lines to include toddler wear so that your entire family looks like they just walked out of their latest catalogue? Well this week, Good Shop takes a step against the grain - No, in fact a leap back in time to the era when children's fashion was an image of the family's name and being seen in public with exquisitely tailored clothing shows how much care the mother took in ensuring the best for their children. Yes, it may be frumpy for some, but for the Victorian class, there is nothing more satisfying than to see their boys and girls ready for an afternoon tea party and a game of croquet.

LITI EMBROIDERY & ANTIQUES
76E Le Thanh Ton St, Dist1 HCMC
Welcome to Liti Enfant. Located a few steps away from the city hall, off the main road of Dong Khoi, on a street where modern office buildings takes another bite out of remaining French colonial architecture everyday, a lady has carved herself a niche with a boutique dedicated to French colonial living!
Where do we start? How about a cute little brown button-up jacket for the boy or slim chocolate striped baby doll dress with a matching bow for the girl topped off with a fluffy bear in her arms? Or perhaps beige cloth napkins and cream laced sheer nightgown for an old world sensuality. (Perhaps hubby might appreciate the sudden departure from red corsets) And if you're in the midst of redecorating your home, why not pick a nice polished oak cupboard with grated glass to set a delectable contrast with your wall mounted LCD screen?
To prepare for that perfect dinner with your family, how about some white china to lay that exquisite tenderloin your father-in-law have been raving about. Take some time off for yourself too and complete your look with a classic jeweled wrist watch and glass necklaces before you settle in for a truly Victorian evening dinner.
When you're done living out such an envious vintage day, know that every piece of Liti that you bring home will be handed over with pride to your children and theirs for generations to come. Happy shopping to all this week and be sure to check back in next week for more Good Shops!
The longer you live, the more things you will end up buying. Some for keeps, some for temporary pleasure, some to enrich your life and some merely bought at the whim only to find you never really wanted them but now you don't want to throw them away either so you repack them and give it to a distant relative on your next Christmas or any other suitable occasion. And for a special number of things, women (and men) have a need to keep them close wherever they go. For all these various things and the different places they go to multiplied by the number of attire they have, will explain why women have such deep passion and are constantly on the hunt for that perfect…handbag.
Like the number of things we accumulate in life, the handbag is often a woman's 'code-of-arms'. Some like them simple and 'roomy' while others swear by lines of zipper pockets to keep everything as neat as a bookshelf. Some just want one for every occasion. And perhaps nowhere else in the world are there more types of handbags than there are in Saigon. From top European and American signature labels to accessible commercial brands to superbly handmade pieces of Vietnamese artwork, expect a visual feast of 'bag-o-mania' to turn women into a frenzy.
This Sunday, the Good Shop features 2 particular finds with very polar genres - Both brands from one family that has run the business since 1969. For Vintage classics to go with your Jimmy Choo's and red carpet dress or bright wacky zip totes for your weekend scooter escapade, Ngoc Chau's Brilliant Bags and Art&Funky Bags will see you ultimately needing a brand new suitcase to fill all the new bags.

BRILLIANT BAGS + ART&FUNKY BAGS / NGOC CHAU BOUTIQUE
108 Nguyen Hue Ave, Dist 1 HCMC
Two shops, side-by-side tells a story of the past and of the present. On the left sits Brilliant Bags, a mini museum of tote-bags, handbags, purses and trinkets dedicated to the art of beading. But it is the bags that really capture your attention as the richly embroidered pieces twinkle to life against shimmering silk, corduroy, velvet and cotton fabrics.
Each piece is reminiscent of a time when a woman with one held gingerly on her fingers was addressed as madame and doors would open for her wherever she went. The classic beaded handbags call out for a night of grandeur at the ball or a ride on a carriage with a gentleman spouting prose as he tries to impress you with his amiable wealth. Sitting pretty in days of old, these original 'hand-carry' bags seems to have stood the test of time and are ever ready to give new life to even the most mundane of dresses you may own. Take your pick of cute buttons to sea shells and jewel stones of beaded bounty to adorn your arm and softly murmur to yourself in the mirror saying...."Brilliant, absolutely brilliant!"
"Should you require more than a centerpiece on your arm and prefer to really dazzle like a damsel on her way to the emperor's court, accentuate the monarch chic with necklaces, hairpins, earrings and jade money tree - A look that will guarantee to send the emperor himself coming out of his chamber to humbly bow at your stilletos."
Now walk over to the shop on the right and you'll be confronted with primary coloured tiles amidst a cheerful wonderland of 'candy bags'. Here, the wacky world of art weaving aiming to please every tween on her way to a high-school musical rehearsal. Take your pick of patchwork shoulder slung bags to animal patterned embroidery or whimsically weaved cartoon purses and bags to fill all the colourful things in life you treasure...at least until you get your next boyfriend.:P
With all that I'd seen I decided to speak to the owner to understand how all this obsession with bags started. Ruby Ngoc was sitting at her small corner table showing me her collection on the web when she revealed to me how the history goes back 3 generations, a time when her grandmother began making bags for women. It was obvious that Ruby's love for bags has brought her to continue the family tradition and to maintain the 'code-of-arms' of making every piece a memorable one. The shop is small and humble by comparison to large scale commercial brands but it is this exact quality that lends its unique charm to a truly valuable shopping experience.

Every morning on my way to work, rumbling motorbikes, honking cars, buses and delivery trucks form a cacophony of sounds on the streets of Saigon; All making a trail toward shops and offices within the city. The sight, sound and smell of the weekday morning rush can be overwhelming. Being a passenger on a motorbike however, allows your eyes and mind to wander off to less 'claustrophobic' views.
On Dinh Tien Hoang street, a street linking Binh Thanh District to the main artery of Vo Thi Sau District 1, one shop front never fails to catch my gaze despite the fact that I see it everyday. I wasn't sure if it was how the clean exterior stood out from the rest of its 'humdrum' surroundings or the fact that everything about the decor seemed to have been so well placed. So I took this particular Sunday to finally satisfy my curiosity. Step into Ngot with me. :)
NGOT / CAKE
217 Dinh Tien Hoang, Dist 1 HCMC
I am greeted by 2 mannequins on a window display with a somewhat nonchalant pose contrasting each other in a soft, white linen taffeta dress with cascading frills and a black, jewel necked, long sleeved number; Both with matching knee length skirts. Sweet!
It dawned on me that there was indeed a correlation between the name of the boutique and the clothes on display (Something not easy to come by with shops in Saigon). Walking in, on both sides of the rectangular shaped shop and hanging randomly from the center are rows of dresses, skirts, shorts, pants and hats all in soft cotton, linen or satin fabric - mostly in neutral colour tones. Light birdseye wood planks and red house bricks forms a poignant 'country-house' atmosphere on the background without imposing on the dresses that adorns them. Sunset glowing spheres set a warm ambience from the ceiling with occasional spots highlighting picture frames with photography of models presenting the garments displayed.
Within minutes I was speaking to the owner of Ngot, who to my surprise turned out to be a an unassuming, polite Korean gentleman with family back home already running a fashion line. I asked him what brought him to Vietnam…as if it wasn't clear that Vietnam is a great place to grow your business. You immediately warm to him as with the environment of the boutiqe as he gladly explains his love for Vietnam and his interest in more casual, relaxed fashion sense with that touch of sweetness and charm already a Korean signature recognised the world over.
It is the meticulously unpretentious location and atmosphere, streamlined colour tones, comprehensive collection of accessible Korean city chic and the fact that dresses here will absolutely flatter the figure of any demure Vietnamese lass without the need to expose your cleavage is why Ngot has my vote for a must-buy summer wear.
Take a summer afternoon stroll at the park, have a Sundae on the terrace, read a book curled up like a kitten in your lover's arms or have a sunset dinner on a Saigon river cruise and you will find there are a thousand reasons why Ngot's fashion sense can make your day just that much sweeter.